Curse

Leonora Windleaf · Nov 27, 2008, 11:05 PM // 23:05

Heya all,

I ordered a Core 2 Duo E8500 to upgrade my current machine. Now, I'm planning on installing it myself, but I think I could still use some advice, since it will be my first time, sort of.

1) I also ordered some Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Paste, and I read that only a thin line in the middle, from top to bottom is all that's needed. Any advice on doing that properly? Knowing me, I'll probably end up with a mess.

My CPU cooler is a Zalman 9500A, and I already had some trouble installing it on my current one, because of the heatsink on the mobo (Asus P5N-D) and various stuff around that are in the way.

2) Is there a waiting time after I have installed the new CPU? Does the paste need to settle in? Or can it run immediatly straight through for hours? (I'm guessing not?)

3) Anything else that I need to know? Something important I may have missed out?

Thanks for the help in advance!

moriz · Nov 27, 2008, 11:23 PM // 23:23

1) the way i was taught was to put a small blob on the center of the CPU, then press the cooler down directly above it. i don't know about that particular cooler though, since i've only worked with intel stock coolers.

2) there is a wait time for it to reach maximum efficiency, but you can start the PC immediately. just remember to hold off the overclocking.

3) make sure to ground yourself by touching a metal doorknob beforehand. don't work on carpet, and don't wear a sweater.

Quaker · Nov 28, 2008, 05:49 PM // 17:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leonora Windleaf

1) I also ordered some Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Paste, and I read that only a thin line in the middle, from top to bottom is all that's needed.

First of all - be careful when removing the HSF (heatsink and fan) and the old cpu.
Depending upon what type of compound was used on the original install, the HSF may be glued to the cpu, so you need to be careful when removing the HSF. You may need to carefully twist it to break it free from the cpu - even with ordinary paste.
The socket 775 cpu's have no "pins" - the pins are in the socket. So be careful when removing the cpu from the socket - lift it straight up to avoid bending any pins.
When you insert the new cpu - line it up properly and lower it gently into place. Try to avoid dropping it in at an angle.
To apply the thermal compound and the HSF - read this: http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appi..._quad_wcap.pdf
Don't neglect to clean the old paste of the HSF.

Edit - see Snograt's post below for another helpful hint and further down for a better "application" link.

Quote:

2) Is there a waiting time after I have installed the new CPU? Does the paste need to settle in? Or can it run immediately straight through for hours? (I'm guessing not?)

Refer to the above link. basically, there is a "break-in" period for the compound, but it involves normal usage.

Quote:

3) Anything else that I need to know? Something important I may have missed out?

Don't neglect your education. Also, as Moriz says, be careful about static discharge.

Leonora Windleaf · Nov 28, 2008, 06:38 PM // 18:38

Thanks for the tips, guys. Much appreciated.

@Quaker: The link you sent me was for Quad Cores, I got a Core 2 Duo though. :P No problem, I just went to the website and found the description for Core 2 Duos. Thanks anyways!
And about my education: I got that behind me already, so no worries there.

Snograt · Nov 28, 2008, 08:13 PM // 20:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quaker

First of all - be careful when removing the HSF (heatsink and fan) and the old cpu.
Depending upon what type of compound was used on the original install, the HSF may be glued to the cpu, so you need to be careful when removing the HSF. You may need to carefully twist it to break it free from the cpu - even with ordinary paste.

It's a good idea to run the system for a few minutes to get the CPU nice and toasty before you remove it - warm compound makes it far easier to remove CPU from HSF.

No difference in CPU insertion between C2D and C2Q - very similar lumps of expensive metal, them

Wrath Of Dragons · Nov 28, 2008, 10:21 PM // 22:21

I found that using alcahol and a q-tip worked well for removing the old paste. Just dont leave any fuzzes.

Too much thermal paste will actually cool less. Use less then you might think. Something the size of a rat poo should do fine.

Watch out on the pins! Dont bend em.

Quaker · Nov 28, 2008, 11:00 PM // 23:00

@Snograt - thanks for mentioning that - I was going to edit the post to add that, now I don't need to.

@Leonora - Um, call it a "senior moment". For those who are interested, here's the link I should have used - http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...structions.htm
Note that they do indeed say to use a thin line rather than a rat-poop sized ball - that may only apply to Artic Silver 5 in particular though.

Elder III · Nov 29, 2008, 05:04 AM // 05:04

If you plan to mess around inside your computer's case very often I'd highly suggest buying one of these, or something similar. Protect your precious metals and silicons from static electricity at all costs.

It's worth a few bucks even for a one time use imo...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16899261001

Snograt · Nov 29, 2008, 06:52 AM // 06:52

I'm going to go out on a limb and quote a debated tip (feel free to criticise, brethren.)

Plug your PC into the mains, but keep it switched off while you are installing the chip.

This way, your PC's chassis is earthed and you can remove any static charge in your body by periodically touching any metal part of the chassis.

Quaker · Nov 29, 2008, 03:35 PM // 15:35

Most modern computers have a small amount of "stand-by" current running at all times. If you're not careful when you work on them, that could cause problems.
So, I would slightly modify Snog's advice. IF you computer's power supply has an actual, physical ON/OFF (1/0) switch on the back, it is a good idea to leave it plugged in and switch the switch to OFF (0) for good grounding.
If it doesn't have a physical on/off switch, then ground yourself to the computer's chassis to remove any static build-up and then unplug the power cord (from either end).

Those grounding straps, as in Elder's post, are really only useful if you are doing a bunch of different things to a bunch of different electronic pieces, in a static prone area. If you are doing one job, on one computer, and not getting up and down a lot, simply grounding yourself at the start (to get rid of any static) is sufficient.